A Mid-Summer's Journey to Denmark

Last summer I traveled to Denmark (Danmark) to visit my son and his grandmother (bedstemor), a wonderful, sweet woman with a round face and ruddy cheeks. It was about ten years ago that I had last visited Denmark. My son Lukas was only three; we experienced a lovely and snowy Christmas in southern Jutland (Jylland). I have fond memories of building a snowman in Gyda’s (Lukas’ grandmother) garden, Christmas shopping in the heart of Tønder, an idyllic village near the German border founded in 1243, as well as savoring Danish delicacies like frikadeller and ris à l´amande. Oh yes, and relishing the Danish custom of being cozy and snug (hygge).

But I would not see Denmark in her winter dress this time; instead I saw her shimmer in summer’s glorious light. Ah, the light. To cast one’s eyes upon Denmark in mid-summer is truly a visual feast, one that should not be missed, for this small Scandinavian country bewitches and intoxicates one’s senses at every turn in the road or bend in the river. On a warm day last July I flew to Hamburg, Germany by way of Newark, N.J. I barely made the flight as we were delayed by bad weather. I was forced to pull an “OJ Simpson” - like in those old Hertz rental car commercials - as I ran barefoot through Newark International to catch my connecting flight. Disheveled and out of breath, I sat next to a friendly young German man who was headed home for a holiday. I smiled and felt thankful to be heading across the pond.

We landed in Hamburg early the next morning. The rental car desk was quiet; I secured a fabulous minivan, loaded my gear and set out for the Autobahn. I had been forewarned by Lukas’ father (Karsten) that the drive to Ikast, Denmark would take several hours, and that I should stop along the way and rest. Karsten also mentioned something about keeping up with the drivers on the Autobahn, the ultimate driving experience where drivers can exceed 100 kph. I spent part of the flight to Hamburg psyching myself for what could be a hair-raising drive north. It was a breeze and before you knew it I had reached the Danish border.

The drive across Vejle Fjord was an early morning gift as the sun’s rays danced upon the water. Five kilometers north of Vejle I left the main highway and drove on two-lane roads until I reached Ikast. This leg of the journey was truly picturesque as I traveled through a rural landscape dotted with wind turbines, cows, horses, farms and lots of roundabouts, a fraction of the size of our circles here in Washington, D.C.

Gyda and Lukas were totally surprised to see me before mid-afternoon. My early arrival was impressive and I felt pretty proud of myself for shattering all previous records held by Karsten. Both Lukas and Gyda glowed. I could see that the summer had treated them well. The following days seemed like a blur – wondrous and magical – as we visited family, hiked to the top of Himmelbjeret, one of Denmark’s highest points, swam and hunted for crabs in Lundø Fjord and dined on many a fabulous meal. Oh, and the beer and the ice cream were magnificent!

What was particularly special to me was watching Lukas embrace his Danish roots. He has a deep connection to his grandmother, uncles, aunts and cousins as well as to the land and its customs. It was delightful to hear Lukas speaking Danish with his grandmother and note that it was fairly effortless.

A mid-summer’s journey to Denmark will always be remembered as a very special time in our lives.

Photo 1: Kathleen Bryan
Lukas presents his grandmother with a ceramic vase that he made for her in honor of her 70th birthday.

Photo 2: Kathleen Bryan
Located in central Jutland, Ikast's economic base is sustained by educational and training institutions, agriculture and service industries, including computers, design and marketing.

Photo 3: Kathleen Bryan
The Himmelbjeret Tower, 25 meters high, was erected to commemorate King Frederik VII, who on June 5, 1849 gave the Danish people its free constitution. The tower has a frieze bearing the inscription: In commemoration of the King - Frederik VII - a friend of the Danish people - the giver of the Constitution.

Photo 4: Kathleen Bryan
Lukas with some of his Danish cousins on the dock at Lundø Fjord.